Re: Welding, upside down....

Posted by Billy NY on April 05, 2006 at 14:02:01 from (152.163.100.74):

In Reply to: Re: Welding, upside down.... posted by T_Bone on April 05, 2006 at 09:20:57:

Not at all, there are some great minds here, I always sound defensive, for some reason. The items you have commented on makes good sense.

Good point, this repair is mirrored on both sides, and terminates before the bend on the c-shaped frame members. I think I'm going to plate the underside of the top flange, I'll practice up on the overhead welding, like you said, same as welding flat, except a little more dangerous with slag falling from above, have to be careful there. If for some reason I cannot achieve the correct results, I'll have someone do these 4 plates, I've got everything set up here to do it. The top flange plates would in theory be in compression, so as it was, there were no signs of over deflecting evident, so I think the upper flange plates may not be needed, but still good measure, at least they'll keep the integrity of the bend with as much continuity as was there before and then some, without over stiffening it. The bottom ones would seem to be in tension and are probably more intregal to maintaining the strength of the member. I have a hard time visualising rotational forces that wouold apply here and any other similar forces at work, but thinking once it is done, I'll monitor the section and see if any problems arise anyways.

I have not had much trouble with the electrode sticking lately, but did through trial and error figure out how the heat range affects the weld, I take scrap plate, make a 1" to 2" pass, from cold to hot on the amperage, until I like what I see. The 7018 seems to like the heat, does not do well under 100 amps on this machine. I was at 140 amps with 5/32" electrodes and it really did form a nice weld. I have been around that range with 1/8" electrodes as well. Polarity is set with electrode positive and I assume DC as I look at the switch. AC is in the middle and stick negative is on the bottom, which I assume to be DC but with the current flowing the opposite way.

One of the areas I need to learn more about is using this NT 251 trailblazer for thin materials, I would not attempt it at this point, a Votech course would be a great help here I'll bet. I do have a Lincoln 225, "buzzbox" as well, from the 80's, which I need to pull the cover and make sure no mouse nests are in there, looks new, but it sat for years, which I have not used yet, but have used others at the labs with 6013 1/8" electrodes with good success. Next I'll want to add the wirefeed to the NT 251, gettin way ahead of myself here though !

I'll post over in the tool talk board next time, it's a great skill to have and be able to use, especially in a crunch, had a stud break off for a shock on my truck once, had to be out of town for work the next day, sure was nice to be able to complete that repair on a sunday and be at work on time the next day.

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