A. Even though this is a general question I am not sure why you do not tell us the brand and model. I could perhaps see how this could change the answers due to the ..I have done x y x to those tractors for years and bla, bla never had to do this. B. I would suggest wiping your concoction on the pressure plate as well. That minute amount oil residue will mean nothing to clutch operation, particularly 3 - 4 months from now. C. In most cases after the clutch is installed and the tractor is bolted back together the throw out bearing and its application mechanism which usually a fork and cross-shaft are also in place. That just leaves the external lever remaining to be installed and then the clutch can be operated or moved to the released position. Whether that is by temporarily assembling the clutch pedal and linkage or by devising a lever that can do this. At that point you can move the clutch to the released position and block it there with whatever means. Some chain and a turnbuckle from a hardware store could do this. D. If the starter comes in from the back side and is in the upper half of the bell housing you could assemble the clutch in the released position held there by appropriately sized hex nuts with strings on them run up through the starter hole. To do this you would probably need to block the clutch plate to a somewhat centered position with cardboard on its outer edge so it is in place for the assembly of the two tractor halves. If the starter is in the lower half I would not trust the ability of the strings to recover the nuts.
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Today's Featured Article - Women and Tractors - More Views From the Farmer's Wife - by Teri Burkholder. The top ten reasons why the judges wouldn't let you participate in the stock antique tractor pull: Hey, this is stock! It came with that V8 in it! That "R" on my tires stands for "really old" not radial! Blue gas? We thought it was a pretty color! What wire hooked to my throttle?
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