Sorry Tom did not greet you in my 1st reply, hello and welcome to YT! I did not give you much info on how to remove the tapered stud. In the link is a similar part to what you are dealing with. I am wondering if part 37 will just unbolt to allow you to get the cylinder off then deal with removal if that is what you need to do. The best way is to pound on the side of the part that the taper is inserted in. I am talking about swinging at it with a 2 lbs hammer as hard as you can hit it. You are trying to microscopically egg shape the tapered hole the tapered stud is inserted into to cause it to pop free. Another thing that helps if possible is to ..counter weight.. the part the taper is in with a back up hammer or sledgehammer. Look at the picture and pretend the nut is the part you want to pound on. Another method is the place the nut on backwards so it is flush with the end of the stud and pound it attempting to drive it out. This method seems less effective than pounding the sides but can work. Good luck!
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Today's Featured Article - Talk of the Town: The Saga of Grandpa's Tractor - by The following saga is from the Tractor Talk Discussion Forum. Someone. The saga starts with the following message: Hey guys I have a decision to make. I know what you all will probably suggest and it will probably agree with me way down inside, but here it is. I have a picture blown up and framed in my "tractor room" of a Farmall M. It was my Grandpa's tractor, of which whom I never got to meet. He froze to death getting this tractor out of the barn to pull a truck out of the ditch before I was born. Anyway my dad and aunt had to sell it at the auction,
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