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Re: John Deere 4020 Won't Run


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Posted by used red MN on May 15, 2023 at 23:13:09 from (68.46.31.28):

In Reply to: John Deere 4020 Won't Run posted by caseitman on May 15, 2023 at 18:36:11:

Hello caseitman welcome to YT! You have given no
indication of the amount of fuel you get out of the line
from the tank. That tractor also has a fuel supply pump
that originally had a sediment strainer on top. I believe
in many replacement pumps that was eliminated.
Bottom line is you give no indication of what type of
flow that pump is providing. It could be inoperative, it
may have failed in a way that introduces air into the
fuel stream. This problem may be hidden by the fact
that the supply pump is leaking fuel into the crankcase
through its mounting area to the engine. The injection
pump has the ability to draw fuel to itself but these
systems are designed to supply the pump, rather than
the pump drawing fuel through the filters. You mention
opening the banjo bolts on the injection lines at the
pump I suppose you know to properly bleed the
injector lines you need to loosen the lines at the
injectors.
Catguy is not real clear in his description of the
problem he has mentioned, bottom line is if you
actually have a newly rebuild injection pump this
should not be your problem. If you did for some reason
use the return line fitting out of the old pump it could
be a problem. Governor weight flex ring deterioration
is a problem in Roosamaster IJ pumps. After time, heat
age and exposure to fuel they become brittle and start
breaking apart. The link shows an example of one
being installed. The pieces of the ring float out and
plug the return check valve fitting. When this happens
the housing pressure rises and then the main high
pressure fuel plungers cannot pump fuel. The
diagnosis check for this is to loosen the two screws of
the timing window cover just enough to relieve the
pressure in the housing and the engine should return
to normal. Also usually when the engine dies due to
this problem the housing pressure drops and the
engine will restart but then the RPMs slow as the
pressure builds up again. This is where part of what
cat guy mentioned comes into play. As a ..cheat fix..
the check ball can be knock out of the fitting which
allows the pieces to just flow out into the return. The
engine will then run somewhat normally depending
where other pieces of the ring may go in the pump to
affect the operation of other mechanisms. As I said a
newly rebuilt pump using the return check fitting
supplied with it should have no issues like this.
However, if the pump was rebuilt a couple years ago
and has been setting who knows, I am only saying this
in case the pump came with the tractor. I do agree with
the fact that the engine should fire on starting fluid
unless you are not using enough.



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