I've had really good success with a Bush Hog brand 307 pull type. It will EAT anything you can knock down. Unless you enjoy getting a crick in your neck reverse mowing then going forward with a pull type or 3PH is tough to beat. When you back into a cut most of the debris will be thrown AT you versus going forward most will be thrown to the rear with the proper setup. If the saplings are thorn or locust, yes you will have tire issues. Once you get it cut the next time you mow you'll have to watch out for stobs so be careful. If you come up on a larger sapling that you don't want to run over then mow around it and get out the chainsaw. I've seen where some have replaced the blades with heavy chain that will tear up the brush but I've never tried it. Take your time and wear a safety hat if you get a lot of stuff thrown at you, been there and done that.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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