Take a fuel sample in a clean glass from the drain in the carb bowl.
Hold it up and look for water. If there is visible water on the bottom, the tank is contaminated and will need to be dumped and cleaned out. Just draining off the water won't get it out if it has E10 in the tank, it is water saturated. With the tank off, be a good time to look the valve train over for broken springs, bent pushrods, and adjust the valve lash.
If the fuel looks good, check the air cleaner for restriction. The wire mesh may be clogged, it's often overlooked and difficult to clean if really packed up. It may need to have new wire mesh, not an easy job.
When you were in the distributor, did you check the centrifugal advance and excess side play on the shaft? Electronic conversion is forgiving of shaft wear, but only so far. If it's really sloppy it will cause erratic spark.
When it starts acting up, feel the coil, it should not be hot to the touch. It could be failing or the wrong coil/coil resistor combo. Also be sure the coil is getting consistent voltage from the ignition switch. Could be a failing switch, loose connection.
Finally, once everything is checked out, adjust the high speed screw on the carb. To adjust it, with the engine at idle, turn the screw in 1/4 turn, quickly open the throttle, listen to the response. Keep repeating, leaning the mix until the engine stumbles on rapid acceleration. Then start backing the screw out 1/4 turn at a time until it will take sudden throttle without hesitation. a puff of black smoke it acceptable.
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Today's Featured Article - Women and Tractors - More Views From the Farmer's Wife - by Teri Burkholder. The top ten reasons why the judges wouldn't let you participate in the stock antique tractor pull: Hey, this is stock! It came with that V8 in it! That "R" on my tires stands for "really old" not radial! Blue gas? We thought it was a pretty color! What wire hooked to my throttle?
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