My suggestion to you is that you invest in a few of those shafts because I can about guarantee you that the weasler stuff you just bought will not stand up. Weasler has a cheap line that many dealers stock and 'extended life' components that nobody keeps on the shelf... and the cheap stuff doesn't have the same power rating by about 20%. When you dig into their component catalogue, you will find those ratings and related information. If you're just putzing around making light bales it may work fine. If you push to what that baler can do you'll probably smoke the shaft in a day or two. I ended up going to a heavier driveline (35 series) rather than that 14 series because I could not keep crosses on my 327... As far as Deere's part prices are concerned, there is a cost to carry them on the shelf, a cost in maintaining the parts system info that is huge and in the case of that part... the cost of having somebody prepare and weld that assembly. After you cut that broken yolk off the bar and pay yourself or someone else a wage to fit and weld the new one on there, the cost won't be nearly so far apart. If you do that yourself, I guess that's money in your pocket... but if you pay someone else, then you may still be ahead but not nearly so much.
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Today's Featured Article - The Rescue of a Fordson F - by Anthony West. Introduction I live in the UK and have for many years restored Fordson tractors (in the main model N's). I have also restored and shown model F's, E 27N's, Field Marshall Series 2, David Brown Cropmasters and the old rey Fergeson T 20. At one time I had seven restored examples which were shown and used in ploughing matches. As most restorers, I have a number of war stories I can relate on a range of topics that may help other like minded and interested people. Perhaps my first p
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