I had a NI round baler years ago, and it made soft bales, and couldnt ever make a silage bale because it was a fixed chamber baler. I moved to a CaseIH Silage baler, with a variable chamber, which makes hard core bales. While it wasnt ideal it would work. The configuration of the pickup and rollers is different. I moved to a Kubota silage baler now. It has a rotor right after the pickup that keeps the material moving into the tool belts. And if you should plug the feeder, there is a drop floor option which you control from the tractor, and it allows more space for material to flow from pickup into the chamber. Wet bales weigh much more than dry hay bales, so the overall design of the baler is built heavier to carry the additional weight. Pickup design is probably the biggest story in late model balers from balers a decade ago. More teeth, lower overall profile, and faster rotation of the pickup allows for better ability to pickup fine material, like straw from a rotary combine.. Also pickups are now much wider with augers on each side to keep fine or wet material moving into the chamber, instead of just bunching up and plugging.. This greatly increased the volume of hay that can be fed into the baler, and the ground speed at which you can travel.
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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