Thanks for replies, much appreciated. It is good to finally find an active forum for Red Iron. Re TA I dunno I have read about a lot of issues with em, mine doesn't have it, came factory that way and yes the tractor is a bear to shift most of the time, trans brake is obviously worn-out, and speed shift linkage/fork? is certainly not ideal, but it works, sometimes it'll have a tizzy...
On the 3pt hitch, the crank arms are extremely loose where they connect with the torsion tube esp the side where the torsion bar connects to the frame, feels as though the crank arm splines are worn out, (I have the bottom hitch assembly and crank arms off at the moment), the torsion tube splines seem ok although difficult to know for sure. Is it (un)wise to replace the crank arms only w/o replacing the torsion tube, seems as though these oughta be replaced at the same time? Replacing the torsion tube means pulling the IPTO, new seals/bushings and as I understand it a rather serious effort to get the torsion bar pressed out of the torsion tube which I'd like to avoid if possible.
Also, is it normal to be able to hand rotate the rock shaft (using the upper control arms as leverage) to the full upright position?
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Today's Featured Article - The Day Mom Drove the 8N - by Brian Browning. My Dad was wanting to put in a garden but couldn't operate the 8N and handle the old horse drawn plow he had found and rigged up to use with the tractor. Well, he decided to go get Mom out of the house and have her drive the tractor while he walked behind the plow. You got to understand that while my Mom is a hard worker who will always help whenever she can... she had never operated farm machinery before that day. Dad got her out there, explained how the clutch was the same as in our o
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