Any furnace cement I've ever used was water soluble even after it was dry and hard. I think if you are going to use a filler I would rather use JB Weld High Heat adhesive. It's suppose to be good to 400 degrees. Personally if I ground it smooth and caused it to leak again I would be inclined to go back over it with nickle weld. It may be who ever did it didn't have enough heat to make the weld work and why so much thickness was built up. It might also be the cast had so much impurities in it that nickle welding was a bad choice. It may should have been brazed. Brazing would work whether the cast was good or not.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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