First, you might check out if the wiring to your existing lights has any issues.
Connect the (-) test lead of a Voltmeter to the (-) battery post and check the voltage at both the ground and "hot" terminals at the headlamps.
Over time connections get loose/corroded and cause voltage drop and there's a number of them from the battery, to the light switch, to the dimmer switch, and though wiring harness connections and on to the headlight sockets, not to mention the headlight and dimmer switches themselves.
The "hot" terminals at the lamps should show very near battery voltage and the ground terminals should show almost no voltage.
If there's voltage being "lost" on either side you can do further voltage drop testing to find the problem.
Or, a couple of H.D. "ice cube relays" can be installed under the hood to switch current from the nearby battery direct to the headlamps.
I know a few years back there were kits on the market to do just that on Chevy pickups, I'd assume someone sells "headlight improvement kits" for your Ford, as well.
On my son's 1992 Chevy Silverado I made up my own relay setup and it made a heck of a difference in the light intensity even with standard bulbs.
As to changing the bulbs themselves, some of the aftermarket stuff is blinding to other drivers and may draw the attention of the Law. Look for "DOT" approved bulbs.
Also, check the rated life of any aftermarket bulbs you may be interested in vs. standard bulbs. Some "bright" aftermarket lamps have a much lower rated life than standard/OEM-type.
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Today's Featured Article - History of the Nuffield Tractor - by Anthony West. The Nuffield tractor story started in early 1945. The British government still reeling from the effects of the war on the economy, approached the Nuffield organization to see if they would design and build an "ALL NEW" British built wheeled tractor, suitable for both British and world farming.
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