Easy test of the valves, disconnect and ground the coil wire.
Remove the air cleaner hose, hold your hand tightly over the intake horn of the carb.
Spin the engine through. You should get a strong, steady vacuum on your hand, and it be wet with gas.
No vacuum, there are stuck open valves.
Vacuum and no gas, there is a fuel delivery problem.
Leave the air cleaner disconnected until you get it running, just in case it is clogged.
Double check the ignition system.
Be sure you have 1/4" spark to ground at each plug. The plug end of the wire, not the distributor.
Double check the firing order, and that it is wired to the correct rotation of the rotor.
Check the wires are correct to #1 on compression. Remove the #1 plug, hold your finger over the hole, bring the piston up feeling for compression. Carefully bring the piston to just before TDC. The rotor should point to #1 cap terminal.
The cylinders may be dry. Put a spoon of oil in each cylinder, spin it out with the plugs out. The oil will raise the compression for easier starting.
You can jump it with 12v. Remove the battery from the circuit, and be careful not to leave the ignition on between start attempts.
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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