Sometimes the the control fork comes off of the control valve. Need to make sure the valve is moving when you move the quadrant.
If it did come off, they can be a bit tricky to get back on. Need to remove both side covers and using two hands, one from each side, spread the fork and reinstall onto the control valve tee.
Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see
Your control valve could have trash in it from running "filthy fluid". Trash inside the valve can make it stick so it does not move in and out to control the flow of hydraulic fluid to the ram cylinder.
If the valve is stuck, sometimes they will free up with the fluid change you did. Sometimes it can mean dropping the pump for disassembly and cleaning.
Need to determine why the lift isn't working first.
Is the pump turning?
Is the fork off of the valve?
Is the valve stuck / sticking?
Is there major leakage from the ram cylinder above?
If your fork is on and trying to move the control valve, you can try "helping" to free up the control valve by hand, through one of the inspection covers.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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