I have an older Winpower 12KW alternator pto powered unit. More then meets my needs. I weld with it, have a a/c on it for a nail gun or anything else and I love it. I've used my 40hp mid 50's diesel Case to run it. This isn't the toy 400s, or the B series built in Bettendorf, but the Racine one. There is a difference, a big difference. I always set my engine speed with a digital voltmeter measured at an outlet in the house and it works great. A few years ago I had the 400 in the shop working on it and I tried my ol reliable SC Case (about the same as a Farmall H) and it worked flawless. I built a ext cord so I can run the tractor in a lean to shed off my granary if need be. Way back we had one here and the radiator iced up during a good ol MN blizzard. Not a happy day. I just popped in a 6" stove pipe thru the roof and I can drop it over the exhaust to run it inside, leaving the doors open. We have a 20 year old 2 story house, 2000sq ft, a/c and all that stuff and works great. And you're right those lower range pto units in the 12-15kw range are giveaways. Tractors will start, if not the gas tractor sure will. Compared to a small engine and all the rigmarole, no way unless a guy is in town and can't have an older tractor. I've other tractors but either of those are perfect and we know they'll outlive us.......... Larry
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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