Here are my recommendations and they are worth what you are paying for them. It is a long shot but maybe you could buy a truck style replacement valve stem as shown on the tube in the link. Maybe difficult to find probably only available through a specialty truck tire shop, if even available at all. Part of what I going for is to NOT have the valve stem held in place by a nut. I would suggest putting it on the used tube, I just feel that it is probably a better quality tube than the new ones. I also agree with Jim about transitioning the area around the stem with body filler, in particular the area that comes into the rim center at such an angle. Lastly or if the other type of stem can’t be acquired you might consider just moving over between another set of loops and drill a new hole in a flat area. Then you could probably use the regular tractor style replacement stem that is fasten in place. Of course in the future if you install tires that could be used tubeless then the other hole would need to be dealt with. For the time being I assume the replacement stem you got is the tractor type that is held in place with a nut, it could be placed in the original angled hole and cut off outer airing sections so the tube has something to set against inside the rim.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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