What I would add, be sure to use the right kind of wire. It needs to be the low voltage automotive wire, the kind found at the auto supply, not Home Depot.
It's special fine strand, extra flexible for vibration resistance, forms easily and doesn't want to spring back or coil back up. That keeps stress off the connections, makes for a much easier installation. Never use solid wire.
You can also buy black plastic split wire harness loom. It covers the harness, holds everything together, gives the wire protection, and looks professional.
Avoid zip ties, tape, and plastic one hole loop straps for holding the harness in place. They look good at first, but eventually fail with age and heat. If you need to secure the harness, use rubber covered steel loops.
Look at where the existing harness is run. If it looks out of place, it probably is. Factory wiring is always routed away from heat, sharp edges, pinch points, moving parts, and tucked in away from getting snagged by tree limbs. Keep that plan in mind as you route the new harness. Sometimes it is easier to leave a long enough loop under the dash so the dash can be removed, turned upside down for the wiring instead of working overhead. Comes in handy if the dash ever needs to be removed later for any other reason.
Take time to study some wiring schematics. Don't assume that because it's wired the way it is now, it is right. Lots of things can be done wrong over the years. I think your tractor has been converted to an alternator. That means there will be some abandoned wires going to the regulator that will need to be omitted from the new harness, and some changes made to accommodate the alternator wiring. There is plenty of information on this online, and we can walk you through it.
Hope this helps, stay in touch, ask all the questions you need!
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