It's very common for the pressure to drop, in fact it's unusual that one will hold pressure, and it really doesn't prove anything if it does or doesn't.
Just FYI, I would never put that much pressure on one, especially if it had some years on the radiator, but it's done, and you got away with it...
But what I would look for is coolant in the oil by cracking the oil drain plug and see if anything drips out.
Then remove the spark plugs. Look at the ends of the plugs for evidence of water, and spin the engine through, see if any vapor blows out.
Typically if there is coolant getting in the crankcase it will show up as water condensing under the valve cover, underside of the oil cap, inside the dip stick tube, and coming out the cc vent tube or PCV system if equipped. If there is coolant getting into a cylinder, it will have mystery coolant loss, overheating, abnormal steam out the exhaust, misfire, even liquid locked cylinder as it progresses.
There can also be collection of moisture from the outside, not related to the cooling system if the engine has been operated intermittently, not brought up to operating temperature, or operated with no thermostat or a failed open thermostat. A clogged crank case vent system will contribute too.
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Smells - by Curtis Von Fange. We are continuing our series on learning to talk the language of our tractor. Since we can’t actually talk to our tractors, though some of the older sect of farmers might disagree, we use our five physical senses to observe and construe what our iron age friends are trying to tell us. We have already talked about some of the colors the unit might leave as clues to its well-being. Now we are going to use our noses to diagnose particular smells. ELECTRICAL SMELLS
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