Re: Engine Rebuild Question

Posted by Trucker on December 22, 2001 at 17:29:45 from (38.195.116.28):

In Reply to: Engine Rebuild Question posted by Bob D on December 19, 2001 at 07:14:45:

Look all the parts over good and see if they look like they are the same.besides having the counter bores clean and using soap on the orings I allways made a plate that would go across the top of the sleeve and catch 2 bolt holes .Then I would get a couple of head bolts and cut 2 pieces of pipe to where it would be a spacer between the plate on top of the sleeve,then I draw the sleeve down with the head bolts evenly and get them snug,then I measure how much the liner sticks up.If there are any dots on the rings they probobly go up in case the instructions dont say.I allways use the oil I will use in the engine to oil the rings and bores of the liner and rod and main bearings.Just have it all clean and use plenty of oil on the rings.Make sure you dont break any when you put them in.I have a ring compressor that you set it once and it stays that way with a quick release.I set it as tight as I can get it and push the piston in with a wooden hammer handle.Dont beat it in,if it wont go its crooked or the rings arent squeezed together tight enough.Also before I put the rings on the piston I put them in one of the cylinders,turn a new piston upside down and push the ring down about an inch,pull out the piston and get a feeler guage and measure the gap.If the instructions dont say what its supposed to be I would call whoever made the motor and ask them what its supposed to be or the place you got the parts from might know.If the gap is too close I would check the other cylinders to see if the ring worked better in a different one.Mostly its just check everything you can think of as you are putting it together like use a feeler guage after you torque the rod bolts to see how much play there is between the cap and crank throw.You will want to plastiguage the rod bearings and mains,especially if the crank was turned.Once I get all the pistons and liners in and am satisfied its all right and I can turn the crank fairly easy with a wrench on the front of it,I clean the top of the block with lacuer thinner before I put the head gasket on.I clean the surface of the head where it bolts to the block with lacuer thinner,make sure I have the head gasket the right way and put it together.Before I clean the block with paint thinner I blow out all of the bolt holes if it doesnt use studs to hold the head on,and run a thread chaser down the threads then clean the top of the block.If you do it like that it should be fine as long as you torque every bolt right.If you have head bolts put a drop of oil between the washer and the bolt head before you screw it in and it will give the right torque reading when you torque,just be sure and thread it all the way down untill it makes contact because if you oil it and leave it set the oil will run off and it will be like you didnt do anything.

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