The very best and first place to start in a shop manual!
It is not expensive, used ones available on Ebay.
Start studying it, read it cover to cover, several times. Put yourself back in the day, get into the mindset of the engineers who designed it.
Then decide what you want to do. Those old gas engines were built to last, to run even under less than perfect conditions. Unlike today's equipment that is designed to put you at the mercy of the dealership, those were designed to go to the far reaches of the world, never to see the dealer again, and be field serviceable with basic tools and the need to keep it running.
Unless the engine is in really poor condition, and obviously it's not because it will still run, chances are it can be gone through fairly economically.
A lot depends on what you do with the tractor. If it still works for a living, it will need to be brought back close to factory specs, which will be in the shop manual.
If it's more for fun and show, you can get by with fixing oil leaks, honing it out and putting in a set of rings and bearings, having the head worked.
If you have a local machine shop that you trust, they can make the needed measurements and recommendations, work up a price, supply the fitted parts, you put it together.
Just be sure to have a plan going in, don't get overwhelmed or discouraged. Have a clean place to work, take lots of pictures, stay organized, ask all the questions you want.
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Today's Featured Article - Harvestin Hay: The Early Years (Part 2) - by Pat Browning. The summer of 1950 was the start of a new era in farming for our family. I was thirteen, and Kathy (my oldest sister) was seven. At this age, I believed tractor farming was the only way, hot stuff -- and given a chance I probably would have used the tractor, Dad's first, a 1936 Model "A" John Deere, to go bring in the cows! And I think Dad was ready for some automation too. And so it was that we acquired a good, used J. I. Case, wire tie hay baler. In addition to a person to drive th
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