Again, sounds like the classic high pressure leak. Now that I'm awake and have reread your post, buy the leak test adapter(s) and do a high pressure oil leak test after you scan and there's no codes. You can buy the IPR adapter and test both sides at once or buy the ICP adapter and a pigtail to send power to the IPR. Send 12v to the IPR while you're sending pressure through the ICP port, one side at a time. If there's a leak, you will hear it on the side you're pressurizing. Don't energize the IPR more than 30 seconds at a time, leaving a minute or so between test cycles.
The worst thing you said in your original post is you replaced your injectors 20,000 miles ago. If the job was done wrong or the reman injector cheap, your failure is likely under the valve cover. Your IPR is probably not plugged because you've run 20K after repair. Spend some time on YT watching DTR's videos. Do the easy stuff first. Do a pressure test. If no leak, test the ICP, IPR and FICM before you dig into the HPOP. If you want to measure oil and fuel pressure, buy billet caps with test ports. A lot easier than using the factory protocol.
The fact that she stalls or fails to start when hot tells you that you have a leak that the HPOP is unable to overcome. This is supported by the fact that she starts when the oil is cooler and thicker. Your suspicion that you're not getting enough fuel through the injector above idle tells you that you don't have enough high pressure oil to open the injector. Now you just have to figure out why. Forget about the doomsday scenarios. Analyze and work through what's wrong. Fix all known problems in the area you're working in so you don't have to return.
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