Well if you can afford to spend a little money you can make your life much easier.
On the Oliver 1550 they have pressure on the hydraulics even if you work the lever when they are shut off. I hated the factory couplers on my Oliver 1655. I switched it over to the lever release Tisco couplers 20 years ago. They are pioneer fittings with a lever that opens the check balls on the fittings after you couple the hoses. you can hook them under pressure easily. Just stick you hose coupler in and then flip the lever to open the balls. I made a bracket that holed this style coupler solid on the right side of the tractor. I stacked the two sets of couplers. The Part number for the coupler is QC 9500-4, they cost around $200 a set.
Then I am assuming that the 1020 your talking about is a JD utility tractor. On that tractor switch the couplers over to the ISO conversion kit. That makes it work like the Tisco coupler I am talking about. Then you can put Pioneer ends on all your hoses and not use any adaptors to hook to different models/makes of tractors. The ISO conversion kits cost around $100-125.
So for $500-700 you can make your life easier when it comes to hooking up hydraulic hoses.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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