Did anything change after you did the ignition and carb work?
Revisit the ignition system. Be sure you have 1/4" consistent spark at each plug wire to ground, on the plug end, not just at the cap.
Check the distributor shaft for side play. If worn, the points won't stay set. It needs to have very little play.
Try the old condenser, they are known for being bad out of the box new. Same with the points, be sure they are making contact, everything is tight and properly wired. Compare all the replaced ignition components with the original, especially the rotor.
Get a clean glass and drain the carb into it. It should have a full bowl to begin with. Crank it for a few seconds, it should pump fuel through the carb and into the glass as a strem. If only a drip, or nothing, fuel is not making it to the carb.
Look at what was caught. If cloudy or water in the bottom, there is water in the tank. If gritty and rusty, the tank is contaminated and will need to come off and be washed out with E85.
A simple test of the valve train, remove the coil wire and ground it. Remove the air filter hose from the carb. Hold your hand tightly over the air inlet and crank the engine through. It should have strong steady vacuum, no back pulses. If there is fuel in the carb, your hand should be wet with gas.
Also check the air filter. See if it will run with it disconnected. It could be clogged with mud dobbers or mouse nests.
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Today's Featured Article - Field Modifications (Sins of the Farmer) - by Staff. Picture a new Chevrolet driving down the street without it's grill, right fender and trunk lid. Imagine a crude hole made in the hood to accommodate a new taller air cleaner, the fender wells cut away to make way for larger tires, and half of a sliding glass door used to replace the windshield. Top that off with an old set of '36 Ford headlight shells bolted to the hood. Pretty unlikely for a car... but for a tractor, this is pretty normal. It seems that more often than not they a
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