To answer your question as to how it works -- it is actually quite complicated . Gas is sucked up a straw with a fine screen on the end - through a gas pump that uses crankcase pulsations to do the work -- then it flows into the little cup you mentioned -- excess is spilled out of a hole in the upper part of the little cup . This is how they regulate the gas level in the cup -- like I said excess spills back into the tank . Another straw with a fine screen is positioned in this little cup and the venturie (vacuum) action draws gas up past the needle adjusting screw and finally into the air flow. Problems with this set up include the two screens becoming corroded and plugged . The gas pump consists of a diaphragm made from a rubberized type of material that goes so hard over time exposed to the e 10 gas that it simply cant flex any more and of course slowly gets harder and harder to keep running. This set up also makes these engine very difficult to start when the little cup loses its charge of gas through evaporation or tiny rust holes in the bottom . You have to crank the engine many times to pump the cup full again. Easiest way to get around this is to prime the engine with a little gas by removing the air filter or spark plug . Some body did sell a primer bulb that was built in to the gas cap. It would pressurize the gas tank some what and force gas up into the little cup making the engine easier to start .
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Smells - by Curtis Von Fange. We are continuing our series on learning to talk the language of our tractor. Since we can’t actually talk to our tractors, though some of the older sect of farmers might disagree, we use our five physical senses to observe and construe what our iron age friends are trying to tell us. We have already talked about some of the colors the unit might leave as clues to its well-being. Now we are going to use our noses to diagnose particular smells. ELECTRICAL SMELLS
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