Expect the bottom of the crankcase to be caked with deposits that at one time "were" in suspension in the oil. Removing the oil pan and thoroughly cleaning it would be the right way to do it. If you don't your oil changes will be black within the first 100 miles where your new detergent oil's (whatever kind you choose and it doesn't matter they all are compatible...per directions on the containers), detergents will start dissolving the deposits and picking them up in suspension.
Back in the days of non-detergent oil, or detergent oil used in urban vehicles that spent their lives on short trips (couple of miles max type thing) when the crud stayed in the engine (BTDT) if you went to detergent oil, or with detergent oil, changed your driving habits such that the engine had time to get to operating temperature for a time, the crud would do just as I said above and not only would dirty the oil, but COULD remove caked on oil from worn out parts causing the engine to burn oil. However, non-detergent oil has been out for 60 or so years...remembering back in the mid 1950's the local Texaco station coming out with Havoline HD 30W that my parents used in their vehicles during the summer. It was Havoline HD 20W in the winters in S. Texas.
I recently bought a 1988 tractor with 900 orig hours and upon draining the oil (upon purchase), running my finger in the drain plug hole, across the bottom of the oil pan, picked up about a ¼" of sludge. I did a double drain/filter change and the first one added a full a can of Sea Foam to the crankcase and I ran it for about an hour to clean up the bottom which it did.
What you don't know is if the PO used non-detergent the whole time or not and if now, should you expect what I mentioned above. Good luck!
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