You'll need a 12v test light or an analog volt meter.
Ground the test light lead or the black volt meter lead. Touch the positive battery post to be sure the light/meter is working.
Turn the ignition switch on.
You should have power to the + terminal of the coil. If no, check the wiring, ign switch, ballast resistor if equipped.
If yes, move the test light/meter to the - side of the coil. Crank the engine through and watch the light/meter.
If the light flashes, or the meter jumps every time the points open, it should be making spark at the coil tower.
If the light stays on, or the meter stays at 9-12 volts, the points are not making contact, there is a break in the wire from the coil to the points, or the distributor housing is not grounded. The housing grounds through the hold down clamp, be sure it is tight and on bare metal.
If the light does not come on, the points are not opening, the wire is shorted to ground, or the condenser is shorted internally to ground. It could also be an open coil, but you already tried a coil, so not likely. (Be sure to put the original coil back on, or be sure the coil that is on it is correct.)
Look carefully at the points and the installation. Try another condenser. All the ignition components are now imported aftermarket and very questionable quality, often bad new out of the box, or miss boxed. Check for side play in the distributor shaft. If loose, the points will not stay set.
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Today's Featured Article - Harvestin Hay: The Early Years (Part 2) - by Pat Browning. The summer of 1950 was the start of a new era in farming for our family. I was thirteen, and Kathy (my oldest sister) was seven. At this age, I believed tractor farming was the only way, hot stuff -- and given a chance I probably would have used the tractor, Dad's first, a 1936 Model "A" John Deere, to go bring in the cows! And I think Dad was ready for some automation too. And so it was that we acquired a good, used J. I. Case, wire tie hay baler. In addition to a person to drive th
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