Re: Allis WD45 TSX 464 Carburetor

Posted by Steve@Advance on February 18, 2019 at 18:15:20 from (66.169.147.211):

In Reply to: Allis WD45 TSX 464 Carburetor posted by Rittdk on February 18, 2019 at 16:17:04:

I'm thinking there may be another problem, not necessarily the carb.

When the float sunk, it probably ran really rich before it completely died. If the fuel was not shut off, it could have even overflowed gas into the engine. Might want to check the oil level for overfull and look at the plugs for fouling. Look at the air cleaner, be sure it didn't get flooded with fuel.

While the plugs are out, check the spark at the plug end of the plug wires. It should have a 1/4" spark to ground at each plug wire. You may want to go with a new set of plugs, or a known good set especially if they are sooty black.

Now to the carburetor.

For an updraft to drip fuel following a failed choke assist start is normal. What you are seeing is unburned fuel draining back down out of the intake. It should stop in a few seconds. A truly flooding carb will begin dripping shortly after the fuel valve is turned on and will continue to drip indefinitely. It will also run bad and blubber black smoke.

As for the idle jet, you are asking about the jet itself, correct? Not the adjustment screw?

You should be able to look at the hole where the jet may have been. If it is not threaded, obviously there was never a jet there. If the threads are rusty, it was probably not there, if clean and shiny, then it was there. You could also call your friend and ask if he took one out.

But... Even if it is supposed to have the jet, that will not stop it from starting or running. It may idle too rich, but once the RPM is up, the idle circuit will have little to no effect on the running.

One other thing to look at, be sure the gasket is good where the idle circuit draws it's fuel up (the small hole beside the venturi). Also the sealing surface is important there. Sometimes the housing gets warped and the gasket doesn't seal properly.

If the idle screw makes a difference in idle quality, chances are it is right. More about that later.

Once the carb is back on, before connecting the fuel line, open the fuel valve and check the flow. It should have a good flow, not just a drip. This will also flush out any debris that may have gotten in the end of the line.

Once the line is connected, have a clean glass ready and open the fuel valve. Remove the drain plug from the bottom of the carb bowl, catch the fuel. It should have a full stream, it will slow as the bowl empties, but still have a good stream, not slow to a drip. Look at what was caught. It should be clean and clear. Murky will indicate excess water, chunks will be rust. If the fuel coming from the carb is dirty, the carb will also soon be fouled. Be sure the sediment bowl screen is clean and in place. Inline filters are sometimes used, but they can be restrictive, I don't recommend them.

I have a feeling if you get the ignition right, the carb will be close enough to at least run.

Once it's running, and up to temperature, it will need to be adjusted.

Adjust the idle mixture first. The engine needs to be at slow idle, 400-500 RPM. The mixture adjusts backward from modern carbs. Turning the idle screw in richens the mix, out leans it. What you are adjusting is air bleed, not fuel flow. Turn the screw out until the idle quality falters, then back in to best idle, then in slightly more, maybe a 1/16 turn.

If the screw has no effect, the idle speed may be too high, there is a vacuum leak, the idle circuit is clogged, or the gasket is not sealing the upper housing to the bowl.

Next the main jet adjustment. Turning the screw in leans the mix, out richens it. Start by turning the main screw in one turn. Try revving the engine suddenly. It should falter or die. If not, turn the screw further in, try again. Once it won't take throttle, start backing the screw out 1/4 turn at a time until the engine will take sudden full throttle without hesitation. A single puff of black smoke is the goal.

You may want to put off the final tuning until better weather, but if it is blowing black smoke under power, at least try leaning the main jet so it doesn't wash down the cylinders and foul the plugs.

Hope this helps, let us know how it goes...

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