Yes, you can do an in frame repair. It's not fun, and takes a lot of patient cleaning, but it can be done. One thing really difficult to do though is get the rope rear main seal in. In fact, I don't think it can be accessed on that engine with the flywheel on.
What have you tried to remedy the plug fouling? Unless it's down on compression and really consuming oil, you might try a few things first.
Is the ignition system in good repair? Hot spark, good wires, timing set and distributor in good repair, the highest heat range plugs you can find will help. There are also "non foulers", threaded extensions to space the plugs out away from the oil. They work, but only as a last resort.
The fuel system, the fuel needs to be clean, the carb adjusted and working as it should, the air cleaner serviced (there is a wire mesh inside the canister that needs to be cleaned and is often overlooked). Running too rich can also foul plugs, and washes down the rings, contaminates the oil.
Speaking of oil, oil that is dirty or gas contaminated, wrong viscosity, or over full will greatly contribute to fouling. Using 15w-40 diesel oil is popular. If you are the only one using the tractor, might try running the oil about a quart low. That can make a big difference, especially if it leaks out the rear main.
The cooling system, one of the best things to control oil consumption is keeping the engine up to temperature. A 180* thermostat may help.
The engine itself, have the valves been adjusted lately? I know it's quite a job getting the cover off, but might be worth it. While the cover is off, the crankcase vent tube can be cleaned out, and the carbon cleaned from the cover. In severe cases, the top end can carbon so bad the oil can't drain down. That engine is not known for that happening, and very little oil comes up to the rockers, but if you do clean it out, vacuum it as it is scraped, try not to let any go down in the crank case.
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