Is what you have working for you? If so, you made the right choice.
Could it be better? Maybe? Probably? Sure? But it's going to cost you a ton of money to change to radial tires now.
You can always add more fluid, or find some iron weights, later, IF you find that you need them.
As for the "rust issue," if the fluid stays in the tube, there is no rust issue. Use good tubes, get them installed properly, and they will last for decades. If you address leaks promptly and appropriately, there is no rust issue.
When you come out one morning and a rear tire is flat, it went flat for a reason. A lot of times you can just pump them back up and they'll seem to hold air just fine, but that's where the problems start. "I'll just run it today to get through this field," or "I'll just run it until harvest is over and then I'll fix it." This turns into months and years.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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