The PTO based pumps can be fitted (and are almost all setup this way) With a pass through stub shaft that extends the PTO out the back. Surplus center has them. It will not be live hydraulics, but will work. Three other options exist. Put a Liftall Pump in the center of the tractor. It is usually about 750 to 8oo psi, but will work well. Again the clutch must be engaged (let out) to work, not live PTO. You could have a Live pump attached to the engine (original equipment on Super Ms) The difficulty with this is that unless your M was produced from mid 1950 or newer, the front timing gears on the cam, and the front cover will need to be replaced with later components. The OEM live pump has a different bolt pattern, and the original cam timing gear is weak, and will often break. The third way is to fabricate brackets and pulleys to drive a belt driven pump from the front of the engine. Again engineering is needed. All these solutions need a control system, hoses, and a reservoir to operate. Jim
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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