It all depends on the tractor. The position of the spokes makes a difference. On a hand clutch tractor with the clutch lever on the right you don't want the steering knob on the right side of the steering wheel. On the Deere A it's on the top. The 630 it's at 6:00, The B farmall is at the top. SC case is toward 7:00ish, I forget where it is on the Oliver 88 and 35 A Deere. The 1086 is hydrostatic steering so it can be anywhere. I will be soon putting one on the 4650 Deere so I won't be hitting my knuckles on the auto steer motor any more.
Safety-wise, the 630 has power steering so the wheel doesn't whip. The 51 A has rolomatic that fairly well takes care of the steering wheel getting away from me. The OLiver 88 isn't too bad, The SC Case doesn't whip the wheel, the 35 A is bad and the little Farmall B, the tiniest tractor in the fleet, will jerk that knob out of my hand quick as lightning and laugh at me besides. I have never been injured by that knob in the past 60 years. Maybe the time is coming tho.
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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