Posted by wellssc2002 on July 20, 2018 at 16:43:46 from (71.64.206.142):
My 1961 Ford 861 Powermaster began running very rough a while back, particularly when the engine was cold. I purchased a rebuild kit for the carburetor, a Marvel Schebler TSX 813. After everything was put back together, the best I could get it to do was fire up and run for 2 to 3 seconds with revving and some backfiring before shutting down, and this only after much cranking. Both the idle jet and main jet were one full turn from the bottom, plus some further adjustments to try to get it to run.
I disassembled the carburetor again and noted that the new float pin was longer than the original, resulting in the float resting at a slightly greater distance than the normal position of parallel to the carburetor body when held upside down. That would result in the bowl never quite filling, right?
I considered using the old float pin with the new float seat, but it didn’t fit as tightly into the seat, wallowing a slight bit side to side. Using the old float seat was not an option, it was all but destroyed during the rebuild.
I adjusted the float so that it rested parallel with the carburetor body, reassembled the carburetor, and remounted it. Now it does fire up smoother, but it takes a good bit of cranking. It doesn’t rev as much, now runs for around 3 to 7 seconds, but still won’t stay running. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
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Today's Featured Article - Identifying Tractor Smells - by Curtis Von Fange. We are continuing our series on learning to talk the language of our tractor. Since we can’t actually talk to our tractors, though some of the older sect of farmers might disagree, we use our five physical senses to observe and construe what our iron age friends are trying to tell us. We have already talked about some of the colors the unit might leave as clues to its well-being. Now we are going to use our noses to diagnose particular smells. ELECTRICAL SMELLS
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