Sounds like TO35 with the ground speed PTO engaged. Look at the left round cover, see if one position is labeled "ground speed". If in that position, shift it to the other.
Whatever it is, the PTO has to be turning for the hydraulic pump to work.
The oil level should be up to the bottom of the round inspection cover holes on each side under the seat. The dip stick should just be touching the oil, maybe an inch at most. Don't over fill it, you'll get oil in the clutch and brakes.
The original oil was GL1 90 weight mineral oil. That works in warm weather, but using it cold will slow the hydraulics down. An alternative is 15w40 engine oil. You'll want to drain and refill, maybe flush it. Those are known for water getting in the cases. When you fill it, best to fill it through the inspection cover. If you fill it through the top transmission plug, pour it in very slowly. The oil has to transfer from the transmission to the rear cases. Fill it too fast oil will get in the clutch.
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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