Re: Replying To gbs F150 No start Post Jinks me Today

Posted by Hobo,NC on February 09, 2018 at 17:26:14 from (75.136.231.157):

In Reply to: Replying To gbs F150 No start Post Jinks me Today posted by Hobo,NC on February 07, 2018 at 18:48:39:

Been a long day...

Yes add fuel are in some cases take fuel away in this case add fuel it was under fueling.

I gave it a big shot of brake cleaner directly into the throttle body it hit but did not start but acted like it wanted to. That’s my sign so hit it again with BK and let if set about 30 sec to let the BK vaporize when I hit the starter if fired right off and idled like a new one.

Let’s stop hear and talk about what just happened what can be learned. The big question is what do I know at this point what have I confirmed and where do I go next. Let’s scratch off what’s known good. Its under fueling at start up and under fueling at anytime other than at idle...

The truck was 50ft from the door it was starting to rain I wanted it close to a shop door I was waiting for a clear bay to get it inside. I pulled it up to a door if I gave it any throttle it wanted to stall it idled up to the door and idled normal in fact I let it idle for 30 minutes it idled just like a new truck.

5 Things an Engine Needs in order to Run

Air

Spark

Fuel – fuel pressure and fuel injector pulse

Compression

Timing – All of the above at the right time

Fuel is still the prime suspect it’s the only thing I have added I need to find out why it’s under fueling. I don’t need to chase my tail with off the wall chit that has nothing to do with why it’s under fueling. Break out box connected I start my search I don’t need a break out box I have two so hook’er up. I pull out my notes from many of the Fords I have done in the past you don’t see many of these non-data menu ford any more so I cannot rattle off what pins I need to check.

I pull it in the shop shut if off and try to start it guess whut I have a no start again. Just the way I like'em...

Break out box hooked up I check coolant temp voltage its .61V, .60 shows around 194 degs GOOD

I check ACT (air charge temp) .75V 174 deg. GOOD

I am headed next toward checking TPS (throttle position sensor) I look at my notes and MAP (manifold Absolut presser sensor) is just under TPS pin voltage check a light goes off in my head check MAP next. Map is the easiest of the bunch no break out box needed but a break out box is hooked up.

Normal readings, barometric pressure plays a roll these are normal for my elevation.

KOEO (key on engine off) 158HZ

KOER (key on engine run at idle) 114 HZ.

Lets see what the MAP reads.

I am in KOEO state I read 125 HZ WTF engine is off I am getting an at idle reading it should read 158HZ no wonder it idles so well once I get it up and running. MAP sensor is stuck at 125 KOEO, KOER. That explains why it stubbles when I give it throttle the MAP is your accelerator pump if it were a carburetor engine are plays well into the fuel strategy. The MAP sensor is new my guess 1 ½ years old by what she tells me this truck has more new parts on it than the law allows down to new fuel tanks…

So why take the time to post this. I hope folks stop and take the time to verify whats good with a few simple test with tools made to do the test with a 100% kill rate not some billy bob trick that is not 100% acturate, take the time to read the info provided take the time to ask for more information.

Keep it simple even on your tractor

5 Things an Engine Needs in order to Run

1)Air

2)Spark

3)Fuel – fuel pressure and fuel injector pulse

4)Compression

5)Timing – All of the above at the right time

In the case of spark and fuel you can make your own making spark is not as EZ tho... Before someone jumps me about air its not a given, air is so much a part of engine control management today it has a sensor to measured air flow in grams....

I sure do miss these NO scan data Fords they made you a better man you were not dumbed down and overwhelmed with information you had to go look for it.... The bad, on my end good information was hard to come by information providers sent you on a witch hunt with a OHM meter you could ohm till ell froze over and never fix it... It would have been nice if they would just tell you what the puter was looking for and that was the return VOLTAGE from the sensor. I have yet to see a puter look for the ohm reading :evil:



One more thang many years ago I had one that I faught off and on for a year it ended up being the vacuum line to the map sensor was sucking together intermittently.

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