When I was in high school a friend had a dad that did body work. His dad agreed to give my friend his old Chevy pickup if he would take the time to learn body work and fix up the pickup. The catch was he had to do all of the sheet metal repair by braising in the panels. His dad wanted him to learn that skill before any welding. It turned out to be a really beautiful Chevy and was even painted black - no body work detected anywhere and he had LOTS of rust to fix.
I have redone my show cars with a cheap 110 MIG welder. It works perfectly for that thin metal. My folks gave it to me back when they were the must have and I had never heard of TIG (it might not have been available on the market - I don't recall). I don't use that MIG very often but I did fire it up just last night to weld together the cracked spare tire hanger on the 35 Chevy. It was smooth as silk. Unfortunately I don't usually weld on metal thin enough for it to get good penetration. Mostly it's welding on busted implements and things. My Lincoln tombstone gets used constantly in that case.
I'd have to say that I could do without it if it weren't for my old cars. If you are going to make a habit of these Mercs it would be worth it. If it's only the one because of its sentimental value you are better off doing what you know.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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