engines collect moisture and it mixes with sulfur and other compounds to turn into sulfuric acid... So in the OLD days, you changed often and before going into storage.
roll forward to the 70s... modern hd oils have extreme base additives to fight and neutralize acids so they are NOT a problem. Modern oils come with a base number of 11.x which means they are not acidic till the reading gets below 7 which is neutral or same as water.
Driving the car will also keep the oil temperatures above 212,, usually around 220 and above, so any moisture is boiled off into vapor and sucked out the the pvc system. Also very little sulfur in the oils any more and lead by products are gone.
So the vehicle will be in relatively good shape going into storage. BUT will have heating and cooling cycles with condensation during storage, meaning that it will have the most danger at end of storage.
SO... use a good hd oil, and change the oil coming out of storage to get rid of the excess moisture from not being run.
Any car used for short trips where the engine does not get to full temp, will ALWAYS be an exception.. You can either run it out at hyway speeds once a week or change oil often...
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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