If you're going to be in the baling business you better get and read the manual for that baler. Chasing a dealer to come fix a knotter problem when there's a black cloud on the horizon isn't going to get you anything but wet hay.
So...
Needle strike is actually spec. I forget now which side it's supposed to strike on but it needs to hold something like 5 pounds side tension on the needle. I would check the book... but I think what you see there is normal.
The twine wrapped around the knotter frame suggests to me that the twine is not cut. If the twine is not cut, my first go to is the twine knife on the stripper arm. Remove the bolt that holds the knotter frame in place at the rear and flip the knotter up. From there you can see how to remove the knife on that particular baler. Either the knife will come off the stripper arm or you remove the stripper. Take it and file the knives until it will easily cut the twine you're using with minimum pressure. That will probably solve your problem. If it doesn't, then post back with whatever new ailment it has. To test... I just empty the baler, run it at idle... and very carefully and with appropriate timing... grab the strings, pull them out and while holding tension on both, trip the knotter. If it will tie in the yard it will generally tie in the field provided the hay dogs are working properly.
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Today's Featured Article - Harvestin Hay: The Early Years (Part 2) - by Pat Browning. The summer of 1950 was the start of a new era in farming for our family. I was thirteen, and Kathy (my oldest sister) was seven. At this age, I believed tractor farming was the only way, hot stuff -- and given a chance I probably would have used the tractor, Dad's first, a 1936 Model "A" John Deere, to go bring in the cows! And I think Dad was ready for some automation too. And so it was that we acquired a good, used J. I. Case, wire tie hay baler. In addition to a person to drive th
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