I don't know anything about a 6320 thermal sensor, but I have experience with the air temp sensor on my Kaw 4010 mule. In the summer the computer sends too much fuel to engine and it idles like crap. I bought a kaw service manual. Ran every test, did a computer scan and everything is within factory specks.
As a last resort, I decide to replace the theromister with a fixed resister with less resistance making the computer think the air was a little warmer. It worked. After playing around trying to make a theromister the resistance I wanted, I finally put OEM thermosister in place and wired another 10K thermosister in parallel with it.
Engine now runs better, idles better and plugs are cleaner than when it was new. I could tell when it was new my fuel/air mix was rich, plugs were a little carboned.
Good luck with your temp sensor problem. I've heard of a guy who has similiar issues with his van. He hung a new water temp sensor beside his engine and it worked better.
I know you always run a risk damaging an engine when you play around tricking the computer. How is that any different than when we play around adjusting the fuel mix screw on a carb? geo
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Today's Featured Article - Engine Valves - Some Helpful Information - by Staff. Intake - On the intake stroke the piston moves doward, sucking in carburized fuel through the open intake valve. Exhaust valve is closed. Compression - With both the intake and exhaust valves closed, the pistons upward stroke compresses or squeezes the fuel into the combustion chamber. Firing - Ignited by the spark, the compressed fuel explodes and forces the piston downward on its power stroke. Intake and exhaust valves are closed. Exhaust valves and seats are exp
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