Thanks, that makes a lot more sense since everyone I've talked to seems to have a different opinion on torque specs and I went on the most common ones I heard. Just trying to get it as close to "right" as I can so I don't have any more problems with it in the near future.
You are correct, it just ruined the babbit, it didn't actually spin the shells. #3 and #4 were the worst and almost completely destroyed. #1 was fine except for a tiny grove down the middle on both halfs and a little material build up. #2 just had a rough bearing surface. I replaced all 4 sets so I know they are all good now.
That's the one things the previous owner suggested, and it makes the most sense since #3 and #4 are farthest from where the oil bar feed comes in. Is there a easy way to take it out to clean it or clean it in place? I was thinking blow air through each hole while plugging the rest to make sure they are all clear, though I don't want to cut any corners on this so if there is a better way to clean it I'd be open to suggestions. I know I will be towing it and making sure everything is getting oil before trying to start it to be safe.
I did manage to get all the holes to line up for the pins by switching around the nuts and all the torques are around 50-60lbs. The head is now back on and will be torqued at 90lbs. I have 2 of the 4 pinned in and doing a final check and finishing the other 2 later today.
The only other question I have is I am slightly worried about the #4 rod, as it was the worst one to spin and needed a bit of work on the crank. All the others (#1-3) I can wiggle back and forth very easily. #4 however, it still turns easily on the crank and I can't feel it dragging any as the engine turns smoothly and easily, but I can't wiggle it back and forth (front to back) like the rest. Is this going to be a problem? I did get it to wiggle after turning the crank over for a few minutes, though then I took the cap off to do a final check before putting the pins in and now it won't wiggle again. Not sure if it just needs to break in or if it's too tight or something so any advice on that is appreciated.
Thanks for all the help and advice, it really is greatly appreciated.
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Today's Featured Article - New Hitches For Your Old Tractor - by Chris Pratt. For this article, we are going to make the irrational and unlikely assumption that you purchased an older tractor that is in tip top shape and needs no immediate repairs other than an oil change and a good bath. To the newcomer planning to restore the machine, this means you have everything you need for the moment (something to sit in the shop and just look at for awhile while you read the books). To the newcomer that wants to get out and use the machine for field work, you may have already hit a major roadblock. That is the dreaded "proprietary hitch". With the exception of the
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