Here's a concern- I think you will find all of those PTO speed reducers are for light duty, intermittent use- aka a grain auger, etc. I was shopping for one of those several years ago, and none are recommended for something like a forage bagger (what I was looking to do) or a manure pump etc. They really do not have enough oil cooling capacity to handle continuous duty.
Another concern would be the 4840. If you are going to be doing a lot of PTO work, pick something else. The 4840 PTO driveline, if worked hard, had some issues. In 1986, ours spun a bearing in the transmission case housing. Ours wasn't the only one.
If you are looking for a dirt work tractor that would occaisionally run something like a batwing mower, you'd probably be fine. If you are looking for something to do a fair amount of PTO work with, pick a tractor that has the speed you want and has a more rugged PTO than the 48.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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