I dont ever adjust the top link to that the implement stays level on the way up...that is NOT what is for. Its adjusted to make the implement run level or at the slant you need for it to work correctly. And in new soil a longer adjustment may be needed and in worked soil a shorter adjustment may be needed. Even on a shredder the link is adjusted to get the "position" at working height, not for keeping it level as you raise it. Some like the shredder a bit nose down at cutting height, I like mine level at working height and like it to be tight enough to pick it up extra high to get over obstacles, but not so tight that the pto shaft is binding when a full pickup. Sickle cutters you adjust for the nose angle of the cutting blades,,, usually level to nose up a bit... disc cutters level or slightly up to help it jump rocks... Box blades level under dragging load so a bit long usually. Even a turnover, the the bite and cut is critical to the top link length. hope I didnt read it wrong..
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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