Welcome! Please use the navigational links to explore our website.
PartsASAP LogoCompany Logo (800) 853-2651

Shop Now

   Allis Chalmers Case Farmall IH Ford 8N,9N,2N Ford
   Ferguson John Deere Massey Ferguson Minn. Moline Oliver
 
Marketplace
Classified Ads
Photo Ads
Tractor Parts
Salvage

Community
Discussion Forums
Project Journals
Your Stories
Events Calendar
Hauling Schedule

Galleries
Tractor Photos
Implement Photos
Vintage Photos
Help Identify
Parts & Pieces
Stuck & Troubled
Vintage Ads
Community Album
Photo Ad Archives

Research & Info
Articles
Tractor Registry
Tip of the Day
Safety Cartoons
Tractor Values
Serial Numbers
Tune-Up Guide
Paint Codes
List Prices
Production Nbrs
Tune-Up Specs
Torque Values
3-Point Specs
Glossary

Miscellaneous
Tractor Games
Just For Kids
Virtual Show
Museum Guide
Memorial Page
Feedback Form

Yesterday's Tractors Facebook Page

  
Tractor Talk Discussion Board

O.T. 94 Ram 1500 brakes update (long post)


[ Expand ] [ View Replies ] [ Add a Reply ] [ Return to Forum ]

Posted by IA Roy on January 03, 2016 at 11:52:39 from (72.168.160.158):

Thanks for all the suggestions. As I stated earlier, it started with low fluid level with no apparent system leaks. I filled reservoir and have had very poor braking with ABS chattering. I got the bleeder screws on the front loose and functional. Yesterday I decided to do the same for the rear. I fought the rusted on rims for about 4 hours before getting them off. I used propane torch to heat and then cool with water, and then the same with atf/mineral spirit mix. The one side came off on the second heating cooling cycle. On the other side I did the same about 6 more cycles and also used BFH on inside and outside. I finally resorted to using a scissors jack between the leaf springs and the rim. I had twisted the jack on the first try with it. I repositioned it and used a 1/2" ratchet to crank it as tight as I could get it. I then heated the rim again and it did pop off. I was surely glad I thought to put a lug nut on as it jumped out with enough force to do bodily damage.
I was not able to get rear bleeder screws loose with the amount of force I figured would not twist them off using a vise grips. The hex should have either been an 8 mm or a 5/16". Neither fit tight enough to keep from spinning on the bleeder. Evidently 22 years of corrosion made them smaller. 7 mm socket is too small. There again I heated and cooled numerous times. By then I had enough for the day and came in for the night. This morning I cleaned up the rear rims and hubs and reinstalled the rear tires after liberally using anti-seize on mating surfaces. I then preceded to bleed just the front brakes. Things seemed normal and I did it several times rotating from left to right. I put the wheels back on and took it for a road test. I actually had made things worse. Now the ABS light is on and does not function. ABS light was not on before. Also the brake warning light on the dash is lit which it was not before. Now the left front wheel locks up on slick surfaces. The overall braking effect is similar, but not necessarily straight. I will probably get new wheel cylinders and some brake line before I go after the rear bleeders to prevent time delays when I break things. Probably be next weekend before I get to it again.
Time to start over. Not sure where to begin.


Replies:




Add a Reply!
You must be Logged In to Post


:
:
:

:

:

:

:

:

:

Advanced Posting Options

: If you check this box, email will be sent to you whenever someone replies to this message. Your email address must be entered above to receive notification. This notification will be cancelled automatically after 2 weeks.



 
Advanced Posting Tools
  Upload Photo  Select Gallery Photo  Attach Serial No List 
Return to Post 
Upload Photos/Videos
Upload one or more videos to your post. Photo filesizes should be less than 300K and Videos, less than 2MB. Formats allowed are gif, jpg, png, ogg, mp4, mov, and avi. Be sure to use filenames without spaces or special characters, and filetypes of 3 digits lower case.

TRACTOR PARTS TRACTOR MANUALS
We sell tractor parts!  We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today. [ About Us ]

Home  |  Forums


Today's Featured Article - History of the Nuffield Tractor - by Anthony West. The Nuffield tractor story started in early 1945. The British government still reeling from the effects of the war on the economy, approached the Nuffield organization to see if they would design and build an "ALL NEW" British built wheeled tractor, suitable for both British and world farming. ... [Read Article]

Latest Ad: Oliver 550 Diesel runs like a watch three point hitch pto engine gone threw about two hundred hours ago nice clean tractor [More Ads]

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy

TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters

Website Accessibility Policy