You have to be able to get the air out of the wheel cylinder, as well as the lines. Since air rises to the highest point, that's where the bleed screw is... typically high in the wheel cylinder.
And, due to the width of the frame/spring perches and "track width" of the rear wheels there simply isn't much room to get at that bleeder, but it can be done.
Sometimes it takes being creative with a "crooked wrench", or sometimes I have used a deep socket and a 1/4" ratchet or breaker bar.
Medium-duty trucks have still heavier springs and bigger brakes and wheels, the job is typically no easier on those.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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