If you look at various engine mfg's suggestions, as well as the advice given below, you'll find what they all suggest will vary somewhat. This is going to happen based on a variety of factors, one being the makeup of the rings, as well as the material in the walls of the block/cylinder.
Personally when I build an engine I simply tell the customer that they need to "work" the machine when they get it home and not to let it idle a lot. Heck, idleing a engine too much, and/or not running it enough to get mup to operating temp for any length of time, rings seated or not, is just asking for problems.
Over the years I've seen a 4-71 Detroit in a crane that was wet stacking to the point when the machine was run hard, the exhaust system caught fire. Shoretly afterwards I was asked to rebuild the engine, after the airbbox drains started pouring oil. Once rebuilt I gave them the same advice to work the machine. In the job they were on that wasn't possible and it began to wet stack again. I can't remember what all we did on that machine, but between it being the middle of winter, and the limited jobs that could be done with the crane on that particular job site that would actually put it under a load, we had a heck of a time ever getting the rings to seat in that engine. (didn't want to use the trick below because of the blower)
Rebuilt one in a MF 1654 a number of years ago. This tractor is used in a specialized application and it's main job is powering a hydraulic pump to operate a conveyor system permanently attached to it, so it routinely runs at an idle. Once again, the advice to run it hard was given, and not followed. In that case, I had to put cardboard over the radiator to get it to full operating temp (middle of winter at the time). Once the temps came up, I removed the air filter and slowly fed a tablespoon of Bon-Ami powder into the intake. I let the engine continue to run about 3/4 throttle for another 30 minutes, then bumped it up to full throttle for a little longer. That was 10, or more, years ago and it's still running strong nearly every day, with no issues what so ever.
Dad used to see the same thing when buidling engines for the local A/C- F/A construction equipment dealer back in the 70's. He finally quit letting any machine leave until they had taken it out back and let it run, under a load, for a while, to seat the rings. Once they began doing that, he said they never had any comebacks, or complaints.
Ultimately, the main thing is get the engine to operating temp, and run it with a load for awhile when it's new. Even after it's broken in, don't idle it for long periods of time if you can help it, without that time being followed by a period of heavy work to insure everything heats up.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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