I have used a rigid Sunnen Hone to recondition many blocks where I could get pistons in .010 over the current bore. Many of them were single cylinder Kohler engines from Cub Cadets but I have also taken .020" out of a Ford 391 and .030" from a Chevy 250.
Use coarse stones dry until you are about .002 from the final desired size. Then use a medium stone with oil until you are about .0005 - .001 from the final desired size. Then finish off with the proper fine stones with oil to get the proper piston fit and finish on the cylinder walls.
The most I have taken out is .250" in one cylinder in a Continental engine in a Massey Harris 101 Senior. The cylinder had a crack so I honed it out and pressed in a repair sleeve and then took that sleeve back to standard bore.
My 2444 has .010 over pistons in it since I wanted to leave the cylinders as small as possible to allow for additional overhauls in the future. There was one cylinder that did not clean up completely, there was a spot about the size of a nickle that still showed a bit of wear. I chose to leave it rather than going .020" over. If I had sent the block out to a machine shop I'm sure they would have bored it to .030" and not been concerned about future overhauls.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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