Re: Re: DURA-LUBE: in old tractors and what not.Good ,Bad, OR JUST A GIMMICK

Subject: Re: Re: Re: DURA-LUBE: in old tractors and what not.Good ,Bad, OR JUST A GIMMICK

Comments:
: : : Have you used it in anything? what is your oppinion. : : : I feel commercials are like political polls, don't ever : : : reflect what the working folks thinks. : : : So lets hear what you folfs have to say that plopped down : : : your hard earned cash. : : : Thanks : Tyler. : You seem to know your lubes. : Information on a suject can not be to long. : Thanks for taking the time. : : : Warning Long Append Follows!: : : : Short version: Don't bother with any additives in a tractor. Use a good oil. Change it often. Change the filter often, too. Happy Tractoring. : : Well, you have to watch these engine additives pretty carefully. In general, you wouldn't need to use any of them in a tractor engine. Just use a high quality (insert favorite oil brand name here - I use Shell Rotella-T in everything but my race car). Use a synthetic oil if you're concerned about your favorite antique machine. : : The main thing is to have a lubricant that maintains enough viscosity over the pressures and temperatures found at the crankshaft journals. If you subject the lubricant to too high a temperature or pressure (generated by the speed of the engine), the lubricant will thin down and spray out of the bearing clearance. When that happens, the bearing and crankshaft surfaces will collide and the resulting friction will cause surface heat high enough to melt the metal. That's when things blow up. : : The additives fall into two catagories: A viscosity extender (allows less thinning when heated), and a metal surface lubricant. Products like Wynne's, STP, Motor Honey, etc. are viscosity extenders. Products like Slick 50 and Dura Lube, etc. are surface lubricants. : : Slick 50 is a PolyTetraFluoroEthelyne (PTFE, or Teflon to use DuPont's trade name) substance. The idea is that the additive will deposit a layer of PTFE onto the bearing and crankshaft surfaces during normal operation. Then, should conditions cause loss of viscosity, the PTFE will come in contact with PTFE, allowing a low friction (hence, low heat generating) meeting between the surfaces. Once the low viscosity condition is past, the system will still be functioning (instead of having made little bits of metal all over the place). : : I'm not sure what DuraLube is made out of, so I can't comment on it directly. I do, however, know that many of these additives are formulated with Chlorine and/or Chlorides as their active ingredient. Chlorine is an extremely good lubricant (take a finger dip of laundry bleach and rub it with your thumb, and you'll see what I mean), and will surpass any oil you care to name in reducing friction. Chlorine is also *very* reactive (allow your rear tires on the tractor leak and watch what happens to the rim). By virtue of the commercial for DuraLube, I suspect that it fits into the Chlorine class of products. Using a chlorine soultion in an engine and then draining it out would be a test that chlorine would easily pass.... The one with the pressure roller on a lathe is another suspicious ad. Check to see what the active ingredients are. Note also, that PTFE additives are approved by the FAA for aircraft engines (they're not going to allow crap in an airplane engine that might cause it to 'drop by' someone's house). : : In my race car (I run a Legends car), I use Molybdenum Disulfide on the rotating parts prior to assembling the engine. This is due to the fact that a race car generates high RPMs, high heat, heavy loads suddenly removed (full throttle to snapped shut - you should see the engin vacuum readings!, and (most importantly), high cornering loads. The main concern is that the cornering force will slosh the oil away from the oil pickup in the middle of the turn. The oil pressure will drop for a second or so, but by the time it comes back to full pressure, I'm at 9,000 RPM in the middle of the next straightaway. The loss of oil pressure will cause problems unless there is an additional lubricant to operate here. MolyDyne (trade name) works wonders here, but is not easy to use. You need to have a fully broken-in engine prior to applying it. Then, it needs to be applied to the metal surfaces directly, not through the oil bath. This means building the engine, breaking it in, then tearing it down to apply the MolyDyne, then reassembling it. NOT a procedure most folks would want to go through. : : Well, there's the basics. Sorry for the length of the append.....

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