Posted by old-ford-fan on October 17, 2015 at 19:21:45 from (172.243.211.139):
In Reply to: Ford 861 or 4000? posted by old-ford-fan on October 16, 2015 at 07:59:23:
[quote="CVPost-sparepartsTN"](quoted from post at 21:29:25 10/17/15) Ah, the game continues, good. I took some more pictures tonight (still didn't wash the tractor, sorry), one shows the carb with the egg(?) shaped, raised identification area (center of picture, cleaned!!) with the date code stamped
in the front, skinny section. Mine shows 7 58, and the carb model number on the rounder part.
>>I will take another closer look again at the carb in the daylight. It may be time to rebuild it in the near future, unless there is some super replacement carb that I don't know about?
Also a closer picture of the date on the right rear axle trumpet, directly below the end of the orange tape, mine shows A292, Jan. 29,1962.
>>Thanks for the picture, it helps. I will crawl under mine and look for numbers.
I also have a Franken tractor, mine was a diesel originally and the engine, fuel tank, dash etc. were changed. My dash is the older 600/601 type, the charge indicator light was used with the 172 ci engine/13 gallon fuel tank with fuel gauge.
>>I like the dash layout, though I would like to have a fuel gauge located somewhere at some point.
You are correct that the round gauges were used through 1964, Ford just changed from 801 to 4000 to confuse the innocent. I also looked in my Ford Parts Catalog, 1953-1959, the EAE 134 engine block and EAF 172 engine block have different part numbers but the crankshaft is the same, only difference in crankshafts is diesel or gas. I would surmise from that specification that there are the same number of main bearings in both engines.
>>Excellent to know, I will definitely consider increasing the bore to make a 172 if/when I need to rebuild the engine.
I also took another picture of the rear showing the black plastic box on the fender below the red tool box. I got the box from Radio Shack and wired it for trailer tail lights and directional lights through the four pin plug and a separate
toggle switch for the rectangular work light on the right fender. I should have put in another flasher for four way
flashing but didn't bother. I also ran wire back on my hyd lift disc with tail/directional lights on the back and an amber strobe on the left rear corner to warn motorists. Too much time on my hands?
>>Be glad when I get to do some add on stuff. Picked up an adapter kit today to convert to spin on oil filter. Having starting problems now - cranked, then wouldn't crank, then cranked and started when jumped, then ran really rough for a minute or so, let run about ten minutes, then wouldn't crank when I tried to start again. Didn't try to jump start again. Pulled out battery and took to town to be tested - good volts and amps. Only a 550 cca battery, but I would think plenty for 4 cyl fairly low compression engine? Anyone suggest higher cca?
Going to replace battery cable terminal connectors hopefully tomorrow, spray the connections, check connection tightness, etc. Solenoid looks to be fairly new, but might be tempted to replace it anyway. Need to obtain and change out starter switch in the near future because it either doesn't work or has issues - key start at the moment, no starter switch and the tractor will move if it is in gear with the clutch out and key engaged - not great. Sigh.
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