Re: IH baler knotters

Posted by pete 23 on September 15, 2015 at 12:22:59 from (50.33.28.197):

In Reply to: IH baler knotters posted by rkc9700 on September 14, 2015 at 17:02:02:

I never became proficient on the all twine version of the IH knotter. I did install one on an older 400 series IH baler and worked on a few others but my main experience was with the original style knotter on the 45 , 46, 37 etc. With all the improvements IH made to them I had better luck on them than I did the all twine. If you could see a slow motion picture of the knotter cycle , like the one on the New Holland, a person would see what it does differently. First off it does not use tucker fingers. The breast plate finger has to position the twines in correct place for bill hook to pick up twine. Some times, easy fix, the bale twine slips past the breast plate finger due to a worn, bent or broken spring under breast plate finger. You can see that by watching bale form. If bale bounces back and forth in chamber with plunger strokes this will happen also. Very important to have good bale retaining dog working with good springs and sharp points on dogs. Needle placement of twine has to be near perfect . Needle should touch knotter frame as needle come up to stabilize needle vibration and very close over the top of disc. These things are easy to check. Other things more complicated. The difference between IH knotter and others is the knot on an IH is pulled off the bill by bale moving down the chamber. Only one twine is cut so knot stays on hook until pulled off. No stripper taking knot off hook. Leaves you with a double diameter knot (bow know) which is a stronger knot(when it works). Also, no short twine ends to get in knotter. I notice newer balers have an air compressor on them and shoot a shot of air to keep knotter area clean. Reminds me of a guy who had a 45 IH baler about 50 plus years ago. He had rigged up a little fan to flow area clean. It took more than that though on a 45. Biggest single problem with the IH knotter for lost knots, is, knife not cutting twine clean, leaving strands uncut and when bale pulls knot off hook, it pulls knot that was formed, apart. Easy to check also. Stop feeding material, allow auger to clear pickup so no more material comes into chamber, trip knotter and shut machine off. Then inspect that knot on the hook. Can learn a lot about them from doing that . I could go on but won't. The book on all twine knotter does have several potential areas to inspect according to where twine is cut of busted.

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