I would go Case or MM for bang for the buck. That being said, I think it is most important to go with big cubic inches. For that Hp I wouldn't get anything with less than 500 cubes. Some of the makes you listed just take a 300-400 cube engine and turbo it up and run 25-2800 rpm to make their rated power. You want no less than a 5" stroke , no less than 500-600 cubes and preferably a straight gear type trans. These things are 40-50 yrs old now, you don't want a screamer with automatic trans,unless you are looking for work. G-1000,s are a bargain as are 70 Cases. My pick for value/power/longevity/looks would be 1175 Case , straight gears / big engine / outboard planetaries and most were open station. I assume you wanted 2wd,didn't say. If you look carefully, I still think you could get a descent JD 5020 for under $ 10,000 with aftermarket turbo or non-turbo for $ 7500 and put a turbo on for anywhere from 140-155 hp with stock engine. As for price, anything descent with that HP is going to be close to $ 10,000 unless you get a "western" "wheatland" model without 3 pt. (lots of hard hours)
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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