You've got to remember, if you tee into a line, that valve will be subject to the highest pressure that the line sees, not just what the attachment your running through it will take.
In other words if you were to bottom out a cylinder on another attachment and system pressure built to 1800 psi, you just went three times what the valve is rated at. At that high of a pressure, the potential for a high pressure stream, or for the cast valve to simply explode is too great to chance, in my opinion.
Your best bet would be to simply get a valve rated for hydraulic service from somewhere like Surplus Center. As you can see, a 3/8 valve, which would more than likely allow plenty of flow for your application, isn't but $18.95.
This would be your safest way, along with being the RIGHT way to do what you need.
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Today's Featured Article - Third Brush Generators - by Chris Pratt. While I love straightening sheet metal, cleaning, and painting old tractors, I use every excuse to avoid working on the on the electrics. I find the whole process sheer mystery. I have picked up and attempted to read every auto and farm electrics book with no improvement in the situation. They all seem to start with a chapter entitled "Theory of Electricity". After a few paragraphs I usually close the book and go back to banging out dents. A good friend and I were recently discussing our tractor electrical systems when he stated "I figure it all comes back to applying Ohms Law". At this point
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