While good radials MAY have a little better grip, with the extra expense, the mixed response here, and the sometimes uneven terrain I work, I'm not sure I would keep my shorts clean with "mushy" tires. Also working in the woods over debris doesn't sound radial friendly, so I think for what I'm doing, a stiffer ride with bias is the way to go.
I know there's a lot to be said for keeping original size rims and tires on a tractor, but I have a clay loam soil that tends to be wet, and it seems that once it breaks a tire loose, even through sod, it only takes a quarter turn before it's going down rather than forward. One revolution will often coat the whole tire in goo with no lugs showing. Of course, thats with what remains of the current lugs, ~1/2" in the long spots. I also tend to work 'heavy' and duals aren't practical for this one, so will probably go up a rim and tire size for better floatation, but drop pressure a bit to help the tire grip the ground, rather than push the ground to grip the tire. I know when I dropped from 12psi (as I got it) to 8psi a couple years ago, the traction increased considerably without causing obvious 'squat'. Originally I though 12 was low. Still learning.
It seems that a lot of 'orange' equipment these days ships with Titan "loader" tires (wide lugs, small spaces), rather than Ag. Any benefit to those in the field, or just on the road?
Any comments on rim width and tire profile, such as 16" rims with 16.9 tires? I know wide tires on narrow rims, such as 18.4 tires on 12" rims don't mix well.
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Today's Featured Article - The Nuts and Bolts of Fasteners - Part 2 - by Curtis Von Fange. In our previous article we discussed capscrews, bolts, and nuts along with their relative hardness and thread sizes. In this segment we will finish up on our fasteners and then work with ways to keep them from loosening up in the field. Capscrews, bolts and nuts are not the only means of holding two parts together. When dealing with thinner metals like sheet tin, a long bolt and
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